From the moment I step off the train in Frascati, I can already feel the difference. It’s much cooler here than it is in the late Roman summer heat- something I’m grateful for. But besides the breezy air, there’s a calmer vibe about it- people walk slower, the streets aren’t congested with tourists, and a more authentic feeling surrounds this old town on a hill.
While living, interning, and studying in the eternal is an art historian’s dream come true, visiting Frascati is a perfect day trip to taste a bit of Italy’s wine culture. We’re here to meet Dominique- a California-native who’s been living in Italy for over fifteen years and founded the Old Frascati Wine Tour. Standing in the main piazza, we overlook Rome as Dominique gives us a brief history lesson about the town.
Frascati, like many Italian towns, originally goes back to the Ancient Roman period and is scattered with villas- or country homes- of important ancient figures. A bit later, it was controlled by the Catholic Church, then annexed to the French Empire, and then finally became Italy as we know it today. Most recently, in World War II Frascati was the German Headquarters for the Mediterranean which led to bombings that destroyed close to fifty percent of the buildings.
Despite, or perhaps because, the long history, Frascati is rooted in old traditions in both food and culture. With our new historical info on the town and our appetites ready, we stop at one of the oldest buildings in town. Thankfully- a bakery!
Its walls are a faded yellow and the building appears crooked from years of use- a combination that makes it incredibly charming. Dominique leads us inside and I peak into a room lined with bread- a dream for a carb lover like me. A massive oven is situated against the back wall- the incredible machine responsible for all that bread. But besides the oven, Eugenio, the baker, and Nonna Rosanna, his 90-year-old mother who work across at Antico Forno Cerali, are responsible for this beautiful scene.
We’re led into the shop, filled with locals at the counter, ordering bread and biscotti in Italian. We’re given some porchetta, a specialty of the town and slices of cheese to try, as well as some house wine. As expected, it’s completely delicious.
On the way to the winery we also stop at another bakery, featuring a very peculiar cookie in the window. It looks like a gingerbread man cookie, except it’s a woman- with three breasts. Dominique explains, probably because of our confused (and entertained) looks. The woman is a sort of mascot for the town of Frascati, rooted in the wine history. The legend goes that two of the breasts are for milk, and the third one in perfect Frascati-fashion, is for wine. With vino and the mascot on the mind, we depart for the wineries of Antiche Terre Tuscolane.
Stepping onto the property, you can tell that there’s something different about the fields. A small farmhouse sits on the property and grape vines line the slopes below. Raised in the volcanic-ash filled soil, the wine grapes have to be cultivated in a very specific way in order to meet the specific standards for being DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) which is the ‘seal of authenticity’ for Frascati wine.
After plucking grapes fresh from the vine for tasting, we move into the cellars to explore the process of how it’s made. Dominique explains that soon, once the grapes are harvested, this entire cellar space will be lined with racks of drying grapes. We go deeper into this cave-like structure and learn that it originally dates back to Ancient Rome.
It’s hard not to feel like you’re literally tasting history as you’re here. The ancient cellar and the fact that the same family has been producing this wine for over six generation blends the ancient and the modern seamlessly.
We try three different wines- my personal favorite being the Sweet Cannellino DOCG- a dessert wine that you can even dip Nonna Rossana’s biscotti in. Dominique also filled us in on wine tasting tips to appreciate it as more than just a beverage, but as as a cultural tradition and in a way, type of art and craftsmanship.
With fresh olive oil and biscotti secured in our bags, we say goodbye to our guide and leave the artisanal vineyard for the half hour trip back to Rome. Shortly, I’m back in the heart of the city in bustling Termini Station.
Living in Italy, I’ve learned to appreciate extreme duality. From ancient to modern situated side by side, to balancing classes, interning, and day trips- studying abroad in Rome has given me a chance to really grasp the wide breadth of what Italy has to offer.
And a day trip to Frascati complete with bread, wine, good views, and history is just one of those many things Italy has to offer.
Note: this is not sponsored! I just really liked it and highly recommend checking out the Old Frascati Wine Tour and the lovely town.
Jori Bonadurer 